My World

By Dr. Gary O. Rollefson
- Enthusiastic semi-resident, archaeologist, and fan of Jordan and its lovely people

Welcome to my world! It's been mine as an archaeologist and part-time resident for 30 years, and I’d like you to share it with me. “My world” in Jordan includes majestic archaeological sites, but also includes the modern residents of Jordan, some of the warmest and most hospitable people I've ever known. I am constantly impressed with the sense of welcome that Jordanians offer, whether in a small grocery shop in a remote rural village or on the shaded streets of the major metropolises of the kingdom.

There is a glorious, silent majesty about the sheer 1,000-foot cliffs of red sandstone that constitute the walls of Wadi Rum, a stark canyon near Jordan’s southern border with Saudi Arabia, where Lawrence of Arabia first saw the potentials of the Great Arab Revolt against the Turkish overlords of a small but feisty territory during World War I. The initial battles of this conflict took place amid the mute witnesses of a sacred location dating back more than five thousand years, testified by rock art in the canyon walls to mark appeals to the gods for another year of safety and prosperity in the forbidding sands of a challenging desert landscape.

While Jordan is mostly desert, about one-seventh of the land is rich farmland that today continues to provide more food than the local population needs. The agricultural wealth is made clear by the remains of teeming cities constructed as early as the Neolithic period some 10,000 years ago. The world’s largest Neolithic town – ‘Ain Ghazal, near the modern capital city of Amman – was occupied by a people for whom ancestor veneration was the fundamental cornerstone of their spiritual life, for which the world’s oldest statues were produced.

The natural bounty of the countryside was attractive to outside groups who saw opportunity for political and financial gain. A battlefield for the competing armies of Mesopotamia, Egypt, and Turkey dating back to the 14th century BC, Jordan underwent see-saw control by the armies of great civilizations, but always maintaining its own distinctive stamp on the foreign influences that inevitably altered the local fabric of art, architecture, and religion. Old Testament era tells (artificial mounded cities) dot the Jordan Valley, including Pella, and the highland plateaus. Splendid cities grew during Greek and especially Roman times, including Jerash, the best preserved Roman ruins outside of the Italian peninsula.

The list of Jordan's riches, steeped in historical importance and austere beauty, goes on and on. I’d like to introduce you to “my people,” and to the impressive history (and prehistory) and thrilling landscapes of a land whose treasures are indeed impressive. Ask anyone who has visited Jordan before; they’ll give you resounding encouragement!

The Splendors of Jordan

By Morton Fisher

When most travelers think about Jordan they think only inevitably about Petra -- but there is much more to Jordan than Petra.

Petra is every bit amazing as you may envision. Our most lasting memory of Petra, aside from the breathtaking entrance, was climbing to the high place above Petra Valley on the backs of our donkeys. We don’t know who was more glad to reach the top -- our guides, ourselves or the donkeys. The view was spectacular. What made Petra especially interesting and enjoyable was that we were able to explore it on three separate days, not just the one day or part of a day most tours spend in Petra. Almost equally amazing were the Roman cities, Jerash in particular. We could almost hear the Roman soldiers marching along the wide streets and the chariots in the Hippodrome.

The real key to the success of our trip to Jordan was Professor Gary Rollefson. With little or no background in archeology we learned more about archeology in twelve days than we had previously learned in our lifetimes. We witnessed unbelievable archeological digs and came away with a full understanding of how seemingly meaningless rock piles to the naked eye could explain much of the lives of earlier civilization. Cave dwellings taught us much as well about the early cave dwellers.

But the single most memorable site on our trip to us was not even Petra, the archeological sites or the Roman ruins. It was standing on a mountain top looking over the Jordan Valley in the very place where Moses once stood when he looked over the promised land that he would never live to go to. It made us remember how much of our own heritage was born in this desert land.

Discovering the Treasures of Greece

By Dr. Kyra Nourse

Far Horizon’s “Glorious Greece” trip couldn’t be more aptly named. While I could speak with enthusiasm and at length about any of the sites on the itinerary, I’ll restrain myself and focus on two of my personal favorites.

The first of these is Delphi. I have never seen a photo that can do this spectacular site justice. The sanctuary of Apollo was constructed on the steep slopes of Mt. Parnassos; to visitors, it seems to hang suspended over the gorge far below. The location alone is awe inspiring, and it takes no imagination at all to understand why the ancient Greeks felt here the presence of a god.

Beginning at least as early as the late 8th century BC, Greeks came to Delphi to consult Apollo’s oracle. By the middle of the 6th century BC, the oracle had developed an international reputation and was consulted even by foreign kings. Its fame is well reflected in its architectural remains, from Apollo’s temple to the theatre perched above it.

With its remarkable array of art and architecture, Delphi also epitomizes a Greek cultural paradox: Here the Greeks from different city-states and ethné demonstrated the cultural traits and ideals that made them all “Hellenes.” At the same time, the fierce competition that separated and distinguished Greek city-states was also played out at Delphi, not only in the athletic contests of the stadium, but in the grand treasury buildings and dedications set up by individual states along Delphi’s Sacred Way. The audacity of this display of one-up-manship is almost as breathtaking as the view.

While there is certainly more to be said about Delphi, I’ll turn now to another of my favorite sites: Vergina. The Hellenistic ruins above Vergina afford a pleasing view of the Aliakmon plain, but the truly spectacular sights at Vergina are under ground.

If you drive through the countryside in this region, you’re likely to spot strange artificial mounds rising up conspicuously above the flat surface of the plain. Such mounds, or tumuli, cover Macedonian tombs, often extremely elaborate in design. Not surprisingly, most were robbed of their grave goods long ago. At Vergina, a massive tumulus covered a cluster of tombs, and two of these were still intact when archaeologists excavated the site in the late 1970s.

Vergina is believed by many to be the ancient site of Aegae, and the Great Tumulus the location of the royal cemetery of the Argeadae: the family of Philip II and his son, Alexander the Great. Visitors can now enter the reconstructed “Great Tumulus,” which shelters the tombs and doubles as an on-site museum. In addition to viewing the tombs themselves, you can see the impressive collection of artifacts that were discovered in Tombs II and III, including golden funeral wreaths, delicate ivory carvings, ceremonial weapons, and silver vessels used to prepare and serve wine at ancient drinking parties. It is a sight that effectively evokes not only the culture and artistry, but also the wealth, power, and ruthless dynastic ambitions of the age that succeeded the Classical period.

Uncovering Turkey's Past

By Professor Andy Goldman, study leader

For those of you who have ever wondered about Turkey, it can be a challenging place to describe. Friends have often asked me to do just that, to try and encapsulate my various experiences there, having lived in Ankara for over two years and having visited almost every summer since 1992. The true difficulty lies in not what to say, but where to start. The country is home to such a broad variety of ancient civilizations, such magnificent sites and monuments, such a welcoming and hospitable people, that I am never exactly sure where to begin. But once I do, like all of us who know and love the country, I find it can be very, very difficult to stop…

That said, a short story about why you might want to go. In 2006, my wife and I were honeymooning in the Antalya region, on the Mediterranean coastal plain of south-central Turkey, what was the ancient territory of Pamphylia. Borrowing a car from a friend’s brother, we headed up to a site that we’d never seen, the ancient city of Termessos. In recent years it has become a national park, but in ancient times it was a formidable city/citadel, one which Alexander the Great himself was unwilling to spend the time and energy to conquer. After a short but invigorating climb, we found ourselves on top of a mountain and nearly alone in a vast Greco-Roman metropolis. It was one of the most romantic places I’ve ever been. Most of the buildings, including a gorgeous theater, are still in place and largely intact, tucked amid the creeping vines and trees. We felt like 19th-century explorers as we wandered across the city, discovering the fading inscriptions, broken columns, ancient tombs, each turn of the winding pathways providing us with new and delightful vistas. Best of all was the complete absence of noise, of hawkers, of the modern world intruding upon our experience.

And, this experience awaits at many of Turkey’s well-preserved sites, including Sagalassos and Arykanda, two of the many inspiring sites to which I will be shepherding a group in August of this year. Few countries in the Mediterranean today can provide the average traveler with such an idyllic and unfettered experience. That such opportunities are still available in Turkey is just one of many reasons to go, not to mention why I personally will continue to travel there and why I will never cease to try and persuade others to do so…

Hiking the Inka Trail

By Elise Gochberg, Trip Participant 2007

I did a trip to Peru in 2008 with Far Horizons and it was the most amazing trip/adventure I have ever been on to date. And, I have traveled with various groups and locations and nothing compares to my experience in Peru with Far Horizons.

I did this trip for my 40th b-day with 6 girlfriends and it met every expectation I had and beyond. I think what stood out most about our trip was how well organized Far Horizons was and how they went above and beyond in making sure our trip was a success. We stayed at the most wonderful hotels all across Peru and ate at the most exquisite and interesting restaurants - 4 star all the way.

And Juan, our tour guide, was insightful, knowledgeable, kind and caring. He had lots of information and knowledge to share and he made sure that what we did each day met our needs and was flexible to any changes we required. Juan was such a cool guy and I can't imagine having a better tour guide with us!

We experienced various cities throughout Peru that were beautiful and wonderful - Lima and Cusco to name a few, but the real objective and experience of our trip was hiking the Inka Trail and hitting Machu Picchu. It was spectacular and awe-inspiring and we had the best time of our lives. And you can really see the difference in the groups and the camp sites while trekking - Far Horizons takes you on the trails and camp sites that are remote and are not crowded. When traveling with Far Horizons on this trek you understand why you are going with this group and not the others. The food is awesome, the guides are spectacular and the trip is planned and organized with precise detail that benefits the individual in so many countless and indescribable ways...

After experiencing Peru with Far Horizons I started thinking and planning the next trip with them. But, I am not sure anything will compare to Peru - the people and the living cultures are wonderful and it is a trip everyone should experience at least once in their lifetime!

La Cuidad de los Reyes

By Heather Stoeckley

Lima is much more than just a one-night stand for travelers to Peru. Preferring to quickly move onto Cuzco and Machu Picchu, or even Iquitos, the gateway for Amazonian explorations, most people choose to bypass any city sight-seeing and use Lima simply as a necessary layover from their international flights.

What first struck me about Lima was its brightly colored houses and buildings, painted intentionally in order to contrast against the often foggy skyline. As a San Francisco native, I immediately felt at home with this aesthetic (and climate). I began my journey in the historic quarter, where remnants of the city’s colonial past are ever present, particularly as you walk through the streets and peer up at the wooden balconies that characterize its buildings. After touring the cathedral and the magnificent Convent of Santo Domingo, I moved on to Barranco, an artistic district on the coast with a distinctly bohemian vibe. A short walk will take you to El Puente de los Sospiros, the Bridge of Sighs, where you can sit sipping a pisco sour and observe the sun setting into the ocean. And, as the gastronomic center of the Americas, Lima offers a fascinating variety of dining experiences that will leave your taste buds dancing! Known for its variety and quality, Peruvian food reflects the many influences of different civilizations which have passed through its borders... and Lima is the best place to sample these culinary achievements.

My recommendation: don’t skip this center of commerce, culture, and history. A day or two spent exploring the city Pizarro called, “The City of Kings,” will leave you yearning to discover more!

Into the Shadow and Beyond the Great Wall - The Solar Eclipse 2009

A Journey through Mongolia, China, and Korea
Co-Sponsored by UCLA Extension

By Dr. E.C. Krupp, Director of the Griffith Observatory

As the earth continues to travel in its orbit, the sun moves closer to the descending node of the moon's orbit where the moon and the sun will meet in total solar eclipse on 22 July 2009 for the longest total eclipse since 11 July 1991, the longest total solar eclipse of the twenty-first century, and the longest total solar eclipse until 2132.

A total solar eclipse is one of the most dazzling events a person can experience. Those who have never seen one don't understand what all the fuss is about. Those who have are converted into pilgrims on the eclipse path.

Every eclipse is different. Every eclipse is a surprise. Every eclipse has suspense. Every eclipse has more things taking place in a short time than you can possibly observe. You never get it right. And so you go back for another to sample what you missed the last time and what has never been seen by anyone in exactly this way before.

This time the eclipse path passes through India, Nepal, Bangladesh, Bhutan, China, Japanese islands in the East China Sea, and a lot of Pacific Ocean. Most of the path is threatened by monsoon season, which means clouds, rain, thunderstorms, and typhoons, but the best prospects on land appear to be along the eastern Chinese coast, south of Shanghai. That is where we plan to shanghai the eclipse for 5 minutes and 54 seconds of uncanny sky.

A China eclipse also offers a chance to follow other Asian astronomical trails, and Mongolia's Lamaist monuments are peppered with astronomical and cosmological symbolism. Even the national flag of Mongolia has celestial emblems-the sun, the moon, and the magical light of the upper universe.

I last visited Mongolia a dozen years ago for the Long Underwear Altaic Total Solar Eclipse of 9 March 1997. Mongolia in March was an icebox, and I am looking forward to mowing down the Mongolian grasslands in the height of summer, when the Mongols are celebrating the traditional Naadam festival with wrestling, horsemanship, and archery-skills I need to improve.

We are going much farther afield in 2009, right to the heart of Chinggis Khan's empire, Kharkhorin.

Far from cities in Mongolia in the ten days or so before solar eclipse, we should also be able to access a stunning starry sky at night, and I'll be detailing the constellations we know and the stars as they were seen in ancient Asia.

After Mongolia, on the way to the eclipse, we stop in Beijing to climb the Ancient Observatory with its elaborate historic bronze instruments installed on the roof. Tourists often see these from a distance or even sometimes visit the place, but they rarely get to hear how the instruments and the observatory actually worked and who used them. I have been on that roof four times, and it is always a delight to return.

The celebrated Suzhou planisphere, a thirteenth-century Chinese star map, is one of the historical treasures of world astronomy. People who go to Suzhou see its stunning gardens, but few even know about the map. We are going to see gardens of Suzhou, as will many other eclipse chasers, but the star map is not even mentioned in other organized eclipse tours.

South Korea also possesses astonishing monuments, and one of the most fetching is the Cheomseongdae Observatory at Kyongju. I have wanted to get to it for decades. Built in seventh century, it is a curious bottle-shaped stone building. It is also the oldest standing observatory in Asia. Detailed accounts of it are hard to find and contradictory. Seeing the place in person is bound to be a revelation.

The total solar eclipse and my work worldwide in ancient, prehistoric, and traditional astronomy confers a celestial character to this excursion into the shadow and beyond the Great Wall, but the rest of the itinerary is filled with natural and cultural wonders rarely seen and little known outside of Mongolia and Korea. The chance to sample China, Mongolia, South Korea, and a total solar eclipse in one expedition is unusual. Nobody else is doing it.

Hidden Maya Cities of the Yucatan

by Stanley Guenter

This trip to the Maya area picks up where “Capital Cities of the Ancient Maya” leaves off. After visiting Palenque we explore a number of sites in the Rio Bec region of southern Campeche, where little-visited Maya ruins feature entrances built to resemble the mouths of gigantic serpents. The site of Calakmul is one of the largest Maya sites and was anciently the capital of the powerful Snake Kingdom, mortal enemy of the kings of Tikal. The site of Dzibanche is another large ruin that was the capital of the Snake Kingdom from approximately 450 to 600 A.D., before it moved to Calakmul. It was from this capital that Snake Kings, including Sky Witness and Scroll Serpent, set out to attack and defeat such distant enemies as Palenque and Tikal. Kohunlich is a nearby site where large stucco masks were saved from looters when the Mexican authorities secured the site in the 1970s.

Our drive north through the Mexican state of Quintana Roo takes us through the land of the Cruzob Maya, descendants of Maya who in the 19th century rebelled against centuries of mistreatment and who ruled this area independently until the beginning of the 20th century. The Postclassic site of Tulum is situated dramatically on a rocky rise above the turquoise waters of the Caribbean waters that have made the site world famous. Ek Balam has only recently been discovered and is of incomparable importance due to its phenomenal state of preservation. Chichen Itza, in the central part of the Northern Lowlands, was one of the last great Maya capitals and its structures reflect intimate connections with the Toltecs of Central Mexico. The famous Cenote of Sacrifice was once the scene of rituals that included tossing, not only gold and jade artifacts, but also people into the deep waters. Old tales tell of virgin sacrifices and, while the bones of the sacrificial victims have been recovered, modern archaeologists have not been able to verify their virginal status.

We finish off our visit to Yucatan with visits to Uxmal and Dzibilchaltun. Uxmal is one of the most beautiful Maya sites and its Puuc-style architecture has been described as the height of architectural beauty among the ancient Maya, an impressive accomplishment given that all the work was carried out with stone-age technology.

Merida is the capital of Yucatan and has been since colonial times. Even earlier it was the capital of the Postclassic kingdom of Tiho’ and hieroglyphic texts from Dzibilchaltun, an important site just north of modern Merida, reveals that it was the capital of the Tiho’ kingdom back in the Classic period. Merida was known as the “Paris of the West” a hundred years ago due to its French-inspired architecture that flowed from the enormous wealth generated by Yucatan’s henequen haciendas.

Surprising Finds at Ek Balam

By Stanley Guenter

Over the last decade the site of Ek Balam has emerged as one of the great surprises in Maya archaeology. A relatively small site, although possessing sizeable mounds, excavations in Ek Balam's Acropolis have revealed one of the best preserved stucco facades in Mesoamerica. Arranged around a doorway in the shape of a gigantic serpent's mouth, nearly life-sized stucco figures were excavated in nearly pristine condition, having been carefully buried by the ancient Maya about 1200 years ago. The reason for the elaborate precautions taken by the builders to preserve this facade were revealed when archaeologists entered the inner chamber of this structure and found a royal tomb. Surrounded by ceramic vessels, once stocked with funerary offerings of food and drink for the deceased, lay the body of Ukit Kan Le'k Tok'. Inscriptions from across the site have now confirmed that he was both the first and the greatest king of Ek Balam, having come to the throne in 770 and dying around 800. During the thirty years of his reign Ek Balam became the greatest power in northeastern Yucatan, superseding Coba, the enormous site to the southeast. Many structures were built at Ek Balam during his reign, and Ukit Kan Le'k is even mentioned in the inscriptions of Ichmul, a site 25 km to the west.

A painted capstone from the room just inside the elaborately decorated facade that framed the entrance to his tomb inform us that the name of this structure was the Sak Xok Naah, that may read "White House of Reading". Within his tomb many inscriptions named the dead king, and one remarkable find was a carved human femur, clutched in the hands of the deceased. A hieroglyphic inscription on this bone indicated that it was the bone of a man who was named Ukit Ahkan, possibly the father of Ukit Kan Le'k. There was a tradition amongst the ancient Maya of retrieving the bones of their ancestors to use in rituals designed to commune with the dead. The bone held by Ukit Kan Le'k in his tomb had one end filed down into a point, possibly to be used in bloodletting rites. Other objects buried with Ukit Kan Le'k included a necklace made out of small shells carved in the shape of skulls, as well as pearls and most remarkably, a small frog made out of gold. Gold is all but completely unknown from the Classic Maya world, and this piece was clearly an import from Panama given its style, indicating the extensive trade networks of which Ukit Kan Le'k was a part.

What may be the most interesting find in the tomb, however, was a painted capstone found above the burial. On it, Ukit Kan Le'k is portrayed in the guise of the Maize God, the deity of resurrection and rebirth who represented the cycle of life and death in the cornfield that was the center of traditional Maya life. This painting is unique, however, in portraying this king/god with a split upper lip. Osteological examination of the bones found in the tomb revealed that Ukit Kan Le'k had suffered from a bone disease on his maxillary area, suggesting that in life he would have indeed had an oddly shaped upper lip. While most Maya kings were portrayed in an idealized manner, the artists of Ek Balam saw it fit to portray their king as an individual, allowing us over a thousand years later a unique glimpse into the reality of life as a Maya king.

Capital Cities of the Ancient Maya

No Bañarse!
by Sara Barbieri, Tour Manager (on January 2009 trip)

When you are traipsing through the jungle in the pouring rain feeling the water seep through your clothes, you do begin to wonder what you are doing—oh yes, stalking a Maya ruin at Yaxha! The world around you is still and green and there are no other foolish mortals about (save your intrepid fellow travelers). Transported back in time and appreciative to be with “glyph-man”, Stan Guenter, who illuminates the history of the stelae and the temples you discover, the moment seduces you. The morning, you realize, though damp is thoroughly excellent and even invigorating. And, when this experience is followed by a lakeside lunch under thatched eves at El Sombrero where the soup warms your bones and a member of your group disappears into the kitchen to concoct mulled wine, you know there is nothing better than where you are. After lunch, a boat carries you across a crocodile-infested lake through mist and the flutter of egrets wings (yes, and more rain) to an island where the site of Topoxte awaits. We have the island to ourselves, the only people with the foresight to explore this remarkable and remote site when no one else is about! On the way back to our hotel as the damp rises off our clothes and the windows fog up, we all agree, today is our favorite day so far…

The World of the Maya

by R. Werner, Tour Member

Pity the poor Maya archaeologists of yore who hacked their way through the dense tropical jungles of Honduras, Guatemala, and Mexico for days, searching for some source of water to slake their parched throats or for a bite to eat. They possessed almost no understanding of the history of the Maya or even the belief that the Maya inscriptions contained any information except for some calendrical notations.

This is the thought that occurred to me on the Far Horizons' Capital Cities of the Ancient Maya tour last February as I gazed over the Copan Valley at the ancient site of Copan from a small restaurant serving up heapings of a variety of traditional foods cooked over a firewood stove, each dish better than the last.

And to think that we would have to get up in the morning and take our air-conditioned comfortable bus from our luxury hotel to the incredibly well-maintained site of Copan.

Stanley Guenter, our archaeologist guide read off the hieroglyphic inscriptions on the stelae at Copan like they were this morning's news, bringing to life the ancient kingdom's struggles with Quirigua and Tikal.

From Copan to Copan's arch rival Quirigua and then off to the mighty Tikal. The history got deeper and deeper. Down the Usumacinta River in a boat and then off for Palenque.

The hardest part of the trip for me was calling my wife enduring Boston's winter to let her know which great site, hotel, or restaurant we had just been to (we had both thought when I left for the trip that I would be roughing it in the jungle).

I had such a great time I signed up for the Hidden Maya Cities of the Yucatan tour, which left a few weeks later. Stanley Guenter again was the archaeologist guide.

Yes, archaeologists of yore are probably better off not knowing about these Far Horizons trips. But for us - what a treat!

My Birthday at Tikal

by Heather Stoeckley, Destination Manager

Few places present a better impression of the Maya civilization’s past glory than Tikal. The towering temples pierce upwards through the jungle, humbling every living thing in their presence. A trek through this jungle city, a dynastic powerhouse during the Classic Period of the Maya, offers a rare chance to climb to the top of these temples and view the world as the ancient Maya did so long ago.

In February 2007, on my birthday, I entered Tikal with the Capital Cities of the Ancient Maya group, unaware of the adventures to come. In Izta Maya, the name Tikal means “place of voices” and our search to bring the ancient Maya voices back to life began in the Great Plaza. At first, the only “voices” to be heard were the chirps of native birds and the booming call of the howler monkey, a sound so unworldly that it is beyond description. But then our study leader, Stanley Guenter, began to unravel the layers of Mayan history at Tikal, illuminating for us its rise to power and enthusiastically recounting its epic battles with rival cities Calakmul and Caracol. Continuing on our exploration to uncover and learn more, we allowed ourselves to act as children once again, climbing up to the tops of Temples 2 and 5 to capture that one Kodak moment, the perfect souvenir of our adventure.

After a long and exciting day of venturing through the jungle, we ended our visit at Temple 4, where the view from the top was made famous in Star Wars. Using the zigzag wooden stairs constructed by far braver souls than I, we huffed and puffed our way to the top for a panoramic view of the rebel base, err, I mean Tikal. The sight from the top was astounding – vegetation as far as the eye could see, punctuated by the tops of temples – and we all took a moment to sit and appreciate its grandeur. After catching our breath, we descended from our peaceful perch back into this lost world of the Maya to make our way home.

Quite the adventure, quite the birthday!