Discovering the Treasures of Greece

By Dr. Kyra Nourse

Far Horizon’s “Glorious Greece” trip couldn’t be more aptly named. While I could speak with enthusiasm and at length about any of the sites on the itinerary, I’ll restrain myself and focus on two of my personal favorites.

The first of these is Delphi. I have never seen a photo that can do this spectacular site justice. The sanctuary of Apollo was constructed on the steep slopes of Mt. Parnassos; to visitors, it seems to hang suspended over the gorge far below. The location alone is awe inspiring, and it takes no imagination at all to understand why the ancient Greeks felt here the presence of a god.

Beginning at least as early as the late 8th century BC, Greeks came to Delphi to consult Apollo’s oracle. By the middle of the 6th century BC, the oracle had developed an international reputation and was consulted even by foreign kings. Its fame is well reflected in its architectural remains, from Apollo’s temple to the theatre perched above it.

With its remarkable array of art and architecture, Delphi also epitomizes a Greek cultural paradox: Here the Greeks from different city-states and ethné demonstrated the cultural traits and ideals that made them all “Hellenes.” At the same time, the fierce competition that separated and distinguished Greek city-states was also played out at Delphi, not only in the athletic contests of the stadium, but in the grand treasury buildings and dedications set up by individual states along Delphi’s Sacred Way. The audacity of this display of one-up-manship is almost as breathtaking as the view.
While there is certainly more to be said about Delphi, I’ll turn now to another of my favorite sites: Vergina. The Hellenistic ruins above Vergina afford a pleasing view of the Aliakmon plain, but the truly spectacular sights at Vergina are under ground.

If you drive through the countryside in this region, you’re likely to spot strange artificial mounds rising up conspicuously above the flat surface of the plain. Such mounds, or tumuli, cover Macedonian tombs, often extremely elaborate in design. Not surprisingly, most were robbed of their grave goods long ago. At Vergina, a massive tumulus covered a cluster of tombs, and two of these were still intact when archaeologists excavated the site in the late 1970s.

Vergina is believed by many to be the ancient site of Aegae, and the Great Tumulus the location of the royal cemetery of the Argeadae: the family of Philip II and his son, Alexander the Great. Visitors can now enter the reconstructed “Great Tumulus,” which shelters the tombs and doubles as an on-site museum. In addition to viewing the tombs themselves, you can see the impressive collection of artifacts that were discovered in Tombs II and III, including golden funeral wreaths, delicate ivory carvings, ceremonial weapons, and silver vessels used to prepare and serve wine at ancient drinking parties. It is a sight that effectively evokes not only the culture and artistry, but also the wealth, power, and ruthless dynastic ambitions of the age that succeeded the Classical period.

Uncovering Turkey's Past

By Professor Andy Goldman, study leader

For those of you who have ever wondered about Turkey, it can be a challenging place to describe. Friends have often asked me to do just that, to try and encapsulate my various experiences there, having lived in Ankara for over two years and having visited almost every summer since 1992. The true difficulty lies in not what to say, but where to start. The country is home to such a broad variety of ancient civilizations, such magnificent sites and monuments, such a welcoming and hospitable people, that I am never exactly sure where to begin. But once I do, like all of us who know and love the country, I find it can be very, very difficult to stop…

That said, a short story about why you might want to go. In 2006, my wife and I were honeymooning in the Antalya region, on the Mediterranean coastal plain of south-central Turkey, what was the ancient territory of Pamphylia. Borrowing a car from a friend’s brother, we headed up to a site that we’d never seen, the ancient city of Termessos. In recent years it has become a national park, but in ancient times it was a formidable city/citadel, one which Alexander the Great himself was unwilling to spend the time and energy to conquer. After a short but invigorating climb, we found ourselves on top of a mountain and nearly alone in a vast Greco-Roman metropolis. It was one of the most romantic places I’ve ever been. Most of the buildings, including a gorgeous theater, are still in place and largely intact, tucked amid the creeping vines and trees. We felt like 19th-century explorers as we wandered across the city, discovering the fading inscriptions, broken columns, ancient tombs, each turn of the winding pathways providing us with new and delightful vistas. Best of all was the complete absence of noise, of hawkers, of the modern world intruding upon our experience.

And, this experience awaits at many of Turkey’s well-preserved sites, including Sagalassos and Arykanda, two of the many inspiring sites to which I will be shepherding a group in August of this year. Few countries in the Mediterranean today can provide the average traveler with such an idyllic and unfettered experience. That such opportunities are still available in Turkey is just one of many reasons to go, not to mention why I personally will continue to travel there and why I will never cease to try and persuade others to do so…